This is 11 square miles of escape, 13 miles off the Rhode Island coast. The Nature Conservancy calls it one of the last great places in the Western Hemisphere. Forty percent of the island is protected conservation land, and the beaches feel wild in a way that's rare this close to civilization. The pace is set by tides and sunsets, not schedules or notifications, its rhythm measured instead by screen doors swinging and bikes rolling past on sandy roads.

Rent a bike in Old Harbor and the whole island opens up. The roads are quiet, the hills are manageable, and you can circle the entire shoreline in a few hours if you're feeling ambitious. Most people don’t because there's just too much to stop for along the way. Mohegan Bluffs, on the southern end, offer the island's most dramatic views: clay cliffs dropping 200 feet to the shore, accessible by a wooden staircase of 141 steps. The climb back up earns you lunch.

The beaches reward exploration. Crescent Beach curves north from the ferry landing, with calm water and soft sand perfect for long afternoons. Mansion Beach, a short ride further, feels more secluded. At the island's northern tip, North Light stands watch over a wild stretch of sand where you might not see another person for an hour. The Southeast Lighthouse, built in 1875 and moved 300 feet back from the eroding bluffs in 1993, offers tours and views worth the bike ride.

Dining stays casual and focused on what comes out of the water. The Surf & Beach Bar at Block Island Beach House serves drinks and fresh seafood with harbor views. Sand on your feet is expected. For something more refined, Eli's offers upscale preparations of local catch. Dead Eye Dick's and The Oar are island institutions—the kind of places where the fried clams come with cold beer and stories from the regulars.